Welcome Readers!
On our brand new blog, we shall be kicking things off by talking about the most fundamental part of the whole game: How to Play!
Prepare for a very detailed post guys!
Disclaimer: Any mistakes you may find will probably be down to human error so for that I apologise, but in regards to timing, rules etc, I did use the latest released play rules from trial decks and the Bushiroad Weiss website as reference for this blog post :) Either way, be sure to check up on the exact gameplay and rules from Bushiroad directly if you are thinking of getting into the game; this post was just a bit of fun, to try and simplify and explain things more easily.
I'm not an expert so please don't quote me haha, but I do enjoy the game greatly :D
I hope you enjoy anyway and find it useful to get yourself going!
Introduction
Weiss Schwarz is a two-player turn-based duelling card game manufactured by Bushiroad that also created Cardfight!! Vanguard and Futurecard Buddyfight. Weiss is different to its counterparts as its units are from featured Anime, Manga and Videogames; the idea is for you to choose your favourite series and try to outperform your opponents characters on stage.
Playing Field
I personally believe that in order for someone to understand the game, a good place to start is to understand your playing field/game mat. In every trial deck and most booster boxes, you are given a copy of said game mat that illustrates the zones/areas in the game.
Here are the following areas in detail:
1. Deck Area ~ This is where your Weiss deck is placed, face-down throughout the duration of the game. This is a private zone that neither player can look through, unless a card effect stated otherwise; the same goes with changing the order of the deck.
If your deck should run out (bound to happen 1/2 times per game) at any time in the game, the player does not lose the game; when this happens you simply "refresh" and shuffle your Waiting Room to form a new deck: more on this soon.
Here are the following areas in detail:
If your deck should run out (bound to happen 1/2 times per game) at any time in the game, the player does not lose the game; when this happens you simply "refresh" and shuffle your Waiting Room to form a new deck: more on this soon.
2. Level Area ~ This is where cards indicating the player's Level are placed face-up. Each card represents one Level; when a fourth is placed here, you lose the game.
3. Clock Area ~ This is where cards indicating the player's Clock - otherwise known as damage - is played face-up; the order of these cards cannot be altered.
The maximum number you can have in this zone is 6; when you hit 7 or more, you Level up by choosing one to go in your Level, then once you've done this, the other 6 cards go into your Waiting Room.
If there are more than 7 cards in your Clock, you choose one of the first 7 cards to be put into your Level; the rest of your cards stay in the Clock in order.
Refresh ~ When you run out of cards in your deck, you "refresh" and shuffle your Waiting Room back into your Deck Zone to become your deck again. If you do have to refresh your deck, you must deal yourself a compulsory point of "damage" (it's the rules, can't really shed anymore light on that) as you put the top card of your deck into the Clock, and regardless of if your trigger a climax at this time, this "damage" cannot be negated/cancelled for the reason that it isn't exactly damage. When you refresh, this is an interrupt action where it happens before anything else.
However, on the off chance you Level-up at the "same time" (not literally in a timing sense, but can appear this way) as you need to Refresh, you get to choose which order you choose to proceed so you can Level-up then Refresh or Refresh then Level-up.
Here is a common example beginners may find: a) I am Level 2 and there are six cards in my Clock Area and one card in my Deck during my Clock Phase. How do I resolve things when another card is placed in my Clock Area?
You can resolve this by the following steps:
1. Select one of the cards in your hand and place it in the Clock Area.
2. Choose one of the cards in your Clock Area and place it in the Level Area. This will increase your level. Next, send the remaining six cards in the Clock Area to the Waiting Room.
3. Draw one card from your Deck.
4. Shuffle all of the cards in your Waiting Room to make a new Deck.
5. Draw one card from your Deck.
6. Pick up one card from the top of your Deck and place it in the Clock Area.
The maximum number you can have in this zone is 6; when you hit 7 or more, you Level up by choosing one to go in your Level, then once you've done this, the other 6 cards go into your Waiting Room.
If there are more than 7 cards in your Clock, you choose one of the first 7 cards to be put into your Level; the rest of your cards stay in the Clock in order.
Refresh ~ When you run out of cards in your deck, you "refresh" and shuffle your Waiting Room back into your Deck Zone to become your deck again. If you do have to refresh your deck, you must deal yourself a compulsory point of "damage" (it's the rules, can't really shed anymore light on that) as you put the top card of your deck into the Clock, and regardless of if your trigger a climax at this time, this "damage" cannot be negated/cancelled for the reason that it isn't exactly damage. When you refresh, this is an interrupt action where it happens before anything else.
However, on the off chance you Level-up at the "same time" (not literally in a timing sense, but can appear this way) as you need to Refresh, you get to choose which order you choose to proceed so you can Level-up then Refresh or Refresh then Level-up.
Here is a common example beginners may find: a) I am Level 2 and there are six cards in my Clock Area and one card in my Deck during my Clock Phase. How do I resolve things when another card is placed in my Clock Area?
You can resolve this by the following steps:
1. Select one of the cards in your hand and place it in the Clock Area.
2. Choose one of the cards in your Clock Area and place it in the Level Area. This will increase your level. Next, send the remaining six cards in the Clock Area to the Waiting Room.
3. Draw one card from your Deck.
4. Shuffle all of the cards in your Waiting Room to make a new Deck.
5. Draw one card from your Deck.
6. Pick up one card from the top of your Deck and place it in the Clock Area.
4. Stock Area ~ This is where cards showing your Stock are placed face-down; neither player is allowed to see what cards are placed here. Each time your character attacks, when you reveal the top card of your deck, then it is placed here as Stock. These cards are used to pay for card's "cost" - located just under the cards Level - and you use the last card that entered this zone first; so think of last in, first out.
5. Climax Area ~ Up to one Climax card can be placed here face-up during your Climax Phase. The Climax card is then sent to the Waiting Room during the End Phase of the player's turn.
6. Stage ~ Divided into Centre and Back: This is where your characters are placed face-up while they perform on stage for you. The Centre Stage consists of 3 slots and cards placed here can inflict damage as well as battle with the opponent cards directly in front of them; while cards in the Back Stage are usually where cards with the "Assist" ability is placed face-up. These cards do not attack nor can be battled with, unless abilities state otherwise.
7. Waiting Room ~ This is where cards go when they have fulfilled their purpose or have been "retired" from the field; otherwise known as Drop Zone, Graveyard etc. Imagine it as a place where your characters go while waiting to perform again.
8. Memory ~ This special zone is not utilized by every deck. This is where cards go when they have been "removed" from the game; the reason I say "removed" is because certain cards need particular cards within this zone to gain special advantages, but they usually cannot return back to field or deck once forced into memory.
Types of Cards
There are three types of card in Weiss: Character, Event and Climax. Characters are the cards you use to perform/battle on your behalf: denoted to "CH" found above the card's name. Events are special cards that allow you to gain temporary bonuses; similar to characters as they have requirements in order to be played: denoted to "EV" found above the card's name. Climax cards are horizontal cards that have particular abilities like "triggers" in Cardfight!! Vanguard. They are considered to be Level 0 cards, but are not immune to colour-requirements unlike Level 0 character or event cards.
Let's have a closer look at the Illustration of Card Components:
1. Name (1a), Type (1b) and Card Number (1b) ~ This is where the Name of your card shall be, as well as it's Card Type as explained above and the Card's Number allowing you to find it within your cards set.
2. Level ~ Only Character and Event cards have levels - Climax cards are treated as Level 0 cards - and they cannot be played if the player is not at the required same Level or higher.
3. Cost ~ Only Character and Event cards have a cost, and they cannot be played if the player is unable to pay the correct cost.
4. Counterattack Icon ~ This icon is present on some Character and Event cards, and it looks like a fist; this indicates that the card or its Startup ability may be used during the Counter Step of the Attack Phase of the active player's turn.
5. Trigger Icon ~ Not all cards have a Trigger icon, but those that do (when revealed during the Damage Trigger check) shall deal extra Soul Damage to your opponent.
6. Card Ability Text ~ This is where your card's abilities are stated, along with costs it may have if you wish to activate or use its skill.
7. Power ~ Only Character have this attribute, and it is used to determine the outcome of battles the characters in the Battle Step of the Attack Phase may have. More on attacks soon...
8. Soul ~ Soul points are used to calculate the amount of damage you may deal to the opposing player when you attack.
9. Characteristic ~ Each Character card will have up to 2 characteristics and this is determined by the series the card belongs to; however certain cards can gain a third characteristic through card effects. Certain deck strategies heavily rely on what characteristics you may have throughout your deck - such as "Music" from Hatsune Miku Project Diva, "Student Council" from Angel Beats and "Fleet Girl" from Kancolle - to function efficiently.
10. Colour and Pack ~ All cards from Weiss Schwarz belong to one of four colours and each of these colours have their own trait/specialise in certain areas of gameplay. The colour of cards play an important role in your deck as you may only play cards depending on what colours are in your Level or Clock area (Level 0 cards are colourless so you can play them regardless of base colour).
The following description of the colours only outline what each colour highlights in.
- Yellow ~ "Speed": automatic power up abilities; "bouncing" opponent's characters back to hand when triggered, invulnerability (stopping your opponent from using "Encore" etc), (used along with Red/Green) these cards contain enough power up skills to quickly defeat your opponent. Yellow appears to utilize "Memory" skills the most out of the colours.
- Red ~ "Technique": mainly revolving around burn, salvage and removal, Red messes with your opponent's field, deck and Waiting Room. Red offer stable vanilla units and powerful Level 3s and contain cards that force the opposing character to reverse if itself is reversed in battle.
- Blue ~ "Advantage": this colour greatly focuses on defense and contain great cards that are usually candidates for secondary colour support. Blue characters have the tendency to power themselves up during your opponent's turn and can also stop your opponent from standing characters during their next Stand Phase which greatly increases their chances of survival in a matchup. They also have the ability to heal, and contain more draw power than the other colours.
- Green ~ "Power": these are greatly focused around powering up their other units and can contain a variety of the other colours highlighted attributes but due to their usual power-up ability, their costs can be more expensive. Green focus on power so much that in the latest English releases of Weiss, it's not uncommon to see Level 1 characters overpower Level 3s which is amazing but this usually requires a great deal of controlling the perfect set up and managing your Stock to pay for costs.
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| An example of a Climax Card from AOT Booster |
1. Name (1a), Type (1b) and Card Number (1b) ~ This is where the Name of your card shall be, as well as it's Card Type as explained above and the Card's Number allowing you to find it within your cards set.
2. Level ~ Only Character and Event cards have levels - Climax cards are treated as Level 0 cards - and they cannot be played if the player is not at the required same Level or higher.
3. Cost ~ Only Character and Event cards have a cost, and they cannot be played if the player is unable to pay the correct cost.
4. Counterattack Icon ~ This icon is present on some Character and Event cards, and it looks like a fist; this indicates that the card or its Startup ability may be used during the Counter Step of the Attack Phase of the active player's turn.
5. Trigger Icon ~ Not all cards have a Trigger icon, but those that do (when revealed during the Damage Trigger check) shall deal extra Soul Damage to your opponent.
6. Card Ability Text ~ This is where your card's abilities are stated, along with costs it may have if you wish to activate or use its skill.
7. Power ~ Only Character have this attribute, and it is used to determine the outcome of battles the characters in the Battle Step of the Attack Phase may have. More on attacks soon...
8. Soul ~ Soul points are used to calculate the amount of damage you may deal to the opposing player when you attack.
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| An example of a Character card from Hatsune Miku Project Diva series |
10. Colour and Pack ~ All cards from Weiss Schwarz belong to one of four colours and each of these colours have their own trait/specialise in certain areas of gameplay. The colour of cards play an important role in your deck as you may only play cards depending on what colours are in your Level or Clock area (Level 0 cards are colourless so you can play them regardless of base colour).
The following description of the colours only outline what each colour highlights in.
- Yellow ~ "Speed": automatic power up abilities; "bouncing" opponent's characters back to hand when triggered, invulnerability (stopping your opponent from using "Encore" etc), (used along with Red/Green) these cards contain enough power up skills to quickly defeat your opponent. Yellow appears to utilize "Memory" skills the most out of the colours.
- Red ~ "Technique": mainly revolving around burn, salvage and removal, Red messes with your opponent's field, deck and Waiting Room. Red offer stable vanilla units and powerful Level 3s and contain cards that force the opposing character to reverse if itself is reversed in battle.
- Blue ~ "Advantage": this colour greatly focuses on defense and contain great cards that are usually candidates for secondary colour support. Blue characters have the tendency to power themselves up during your opponent's turn and can also stop your opponent from standing characters during their next Stand Phase which greatly increases their chances of survival in a matchup. They also have the ability to heal, and contain more draw power than the other colours.
- Green ~ "Power": these are greatly focused around powering up their other units and can contain a variety of the other colours highlighted attributes but due to their usual power-up ability, their costs can be more expensive. Green focus on power so much that in the latest English releases of Weiss, it's not uncommon to see Level 1 characters overpower Level 3s which is amazing but this usually requires a great deal of controlling the perfect set up and managing your Stock to pay for costs.
Turn Phases
Now that we understand our playing field and what our cards look like and do, let's look into the phases you have throughout your turn. The easiest way to remember all of these is to imagine them in a timeline sense:
You start the game by drawing 5 cards from the top of your deck. Any you don't wish to be in your hand, you may place into the Waiting Room. If you do this, you get to redraw however many you discarded, making sure you have 5 cards again; this is your opening hand.
Let's look at the rest of the phases in the game; each one in detail:
You draw one card for your turn. At the end of your turn, you may only have a maximum of 7 cards in your hand. If you have more than 7, you must discard down until you have 7 in your hand (place the excess into your Waiting Room).
Preparing a Deck
When preparing a deck, you must make sure that you do not have any more than 8 Climax cards in your deck; you may choose to use less (however this isn't recommended) but you may not use more. You may also not use any more than 4 copies of a named card; so even if you have different artwork, it's still classed as the same card as it does keep the same name; keep this in mind!
As well as making sure there is exact 50 cards in your deck, that's basically it in terms of deck-building rules.
Tricks and Tips
It's personally up to you how you choose to prepare and build you own deck but through my own experience of developing my understanding of the game from a novice to an experienced player, here are a few tips that may help you in your quest to your ultimate deck:
1. Mono colours ~ A useful thing I found was, even though most/all trial decks are two colours, it was easier to get to grips with the basic rules of gameplay if I played a deck built from one colour support cards, so a deck comprised of just Green, or just Yellow cards for example. I understand that not all colours process enough support in a particular set to make a decent deck from particular colours (Blue comes to mind here; at least in the 3 sets I have been involved with).
2. Filing ~ Each time I bought into a new booster set/release, I found it easier to begin building a new deck but sorting cards into colour, then Level, then narrowing down to the ones I like (putting the ones I least like back into a spare box to keep them safe). Through this process of elimination, I found it significantly easier to control the mess - that usually happens after a new release/box opening - and focus on a build.
This method may not work for everyone, but so far I have created 11 Weiss decks of my own and created 5 for other people with very positive results (the builds winning me local tournaments, 85-90% win overall in general) in regards to synergy and strength. Some may disagree with my builds/choices, but that's the joys of it being a card game and how every player can see and utilize combos that others may not.
Now that we understand our playing field and what our cards look like and do, let's look into the phases you have throughout your turn. The easiest way to remember all of these is to imagine them in a timeline sense:
Stand > Draw > Clock > Main > Climax > Attack > Encore > End
You start the game by drawing 5 cards from the top of your deck. Any you don't wish to be in your hand, you may place into the Waiting Room. If you do this, you get to redraw however many you discarded, making sure you have 5 cards again; this is your opening hand.Let's look at the rest of the phases in the game; each one in detail:
1. Stand Phase ~
At the beginning of your turn, you get to refresh/restand all the characters on your field from the rested position [>] to the stand position [^]. If you proceed to the Draw phase without standing any number of units, you will not be able to stand them until your next turn.
2. Draw Phase ~
At the beginning of your turn, you get to refresh/restand all the characters on your field from the rested position [>] to the stand position [^]. If you proceed to the Draw phase without standing any number of units, you will not be able to stand them until your next turn.
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| Clock to Draw 2 |
3. Clock Phase ~
You may choose to place any one card from your hand into your Clock; dealing yourself a point of damage. But if you do, you get to draw 2 cards.
You may choose to place any one card from your hand into your Clock; dealing yourself a point of damage. But if you do, you get to draw 2 cards.
4. Main Phase ~
You may perform any number of the following abilities during this phase:
a) play an Event card - Played from hand, once cost has been paid you perform the event and once resolved, it is placed into the Waiting Room.
b) play a Character card - You may play any number of characters to your Centre or Back stage, so long as you have the stock to pay for them. You may retire previous characters to the Waiting Room from stage, but you must be able to replace them from cards in your hand. c) Move a Character card - During your Main Phase, you may move around your characters on your stage to wherever you like until you're happy with your formation before proceeding to your Attack Phase.
You may perform any number of the following abilities during this phase:
a) play an Event card - Played from hand, once cost has been paid you perform the event and once resolved, it is placed into the Waiting Room.
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| Playing a character to the field |
d) Use the Startup ability of a Character card - During this phase, you may also use any "startup" abilities your cards may have on the stage. They are usually stated on the card such as "at the beginning of your Main Phase" etc.
5. Climax Phase ~
Once you are done with playing characters, using [ACT] abilities and moving around your formation, you have your Climax Phase before you proceed to attacking your opponent. During this phase you may place a climax card from your hand into your Climax Zone and utilising what the ability that your Climax gives you throughout the turn such as give your attacking characters +1000 power & +1 soul, for example.
6. Attack Phase ~
Now to me, this phase can be rather confusing to a beginner player, as technically you have two attack phases: the first is where you attack your opponent directly, and the second is when characters battle on stage.
You have 3 kinds of attack to chose from:
a) Direct Attack - When your character has no opposing character directly in front of it: When you direct attack you opponent, you deal your
opponent an addition soul damage as they have no character defending their health essentially.
b) Frontal Attack - When your character has an opposing character directly in front of it: when you frontal attack your opponent, you only deal whatever soul damage your character has at the time, and this may be higher than 1 depending on skills, after trigger check etc.
c) Side Attack - When your character has an opposing character, but you do not wish for them to battle and choose to "go around" the character in front: when you side attack your opponent, your side-attacking character gets minus a certain amount of soul and this depends on the characters in front Level. For example, if you character is 2 soul, you choose to do a side attack, and the character in front is Level 2, you will deal 0 soul damage before trigger checks.
Trigger Checks and Battle!
In brief, here's how each attack goes:
Attack Declaration > Trigger Check > Counter > Damage > Character Battle.
When you have declared what kind of attack to do per battle, you reveal the top card of your deck. If it has a "soul" icon in the top right hand corner of the card, you deal your opponent and extra damage. When revealed and seen if there is or not a soul icon, you put the card face down into your Stock Area. As mentioned before, you can not change the order of these cards and you may not look at them once placed face down. After trigger checks, you deal your opponent a varied amount of damage, depending on characters soul count, triggers, skills, climaxes used etc.
Then once that occurs, your characters on stage then do battle depending on your choice; If you chose to frontal attack, here are the 3 possible outcomes of the characters battles:
1. If you character has a higher power than the one directly in front, you will force you opponent's character to become <reversed>.
2. If your and your opponent's character is of equal power, they will both become <reversed>. 3. If your character is a less power than your opponent's character, you will become <reversed>
Becoming <reversed> in battle will mean the character is being driven off stage during the Encore Phase.
Counter & Backup ~ As mentioned before, Counter occurs once Triggers are checked. Now backup is an action where players may play cards with the "backup" (a clenched fist) icon from hand to generally give characters extra power to help them before frontal combat occurs. Backup cards usually assist the character to help it not become reversed when targeted for a frontal attack. It is important to allow you opponent to trigger check before you decide to play a backup card as some decks have cards (climax cards usually) have the ability to "bounce" / return an opposing character from stage back to the owner's hand; meaning no battle will occur (thus not being able to play backup cards) but damage will still occur.
7. Encore Phase ~
During this phase, any <reversed> characters may become <rested> instead of going to the Waiting Room permanently. In order to return your <reversed> character to stage, you must pay for Encore.
Encore is either a card ability written on the card (such as put a card from your hand into the Waiting Room, or put the top card of your deck into your Clock) or you may pay 3 stock to return your character to the <Rest> position, otherwise it gets retired permanently from the stage and goes to the Waiting Room: any <reversed> characters go to the Waiting Room, then are brought back to the stage if Encore is paid.
Any markers underneath your <reversed> character is lost and retired to the Waiting Room along with the character. However paying Encore does not return the markers.
It must be noted that the "pay 3 stock" encore rule doesn't just occur during your Encore Phase. If you opponent retires your character, you may pay for encore then to bring it back to the stage.
8. End Phase ~
Now as well as this signifying the End of your Turn, certain card abilities may be used here. If you used a Climax in that turn, you place the Climax from the Climax Area into the Waiting Room. You then discard down to 7 cards if you have have more than 7 in your hand and place the discarded ones into your Waiting Room as explained earlier. After all that, it is your opponent's turn and they repeat the same stages.
Now that we have understood the gameplay of Weiss, let's have a look at building a deck!
5. Climax Phase ~
Once you are done with playing characters, using [ACT] abilities and moving around your formation, you have your Climax Phase before you proceed to attacking your opponent. During this phase you may place a climax card from your hand into your Climax Zone and utilising what the ability that your Climax gives you throughout the turn such as give your attacking characters +1000 power & +1 soul, for example.
6. Attack Phase ~
Now to me, this phase can be rather confusing to a beginner player, as technically you have two attack phases: the first is where you attack your opponent directly, and the second is when characters battle on stage.
You have 3 kinds of attack to chose from:
a) Direct Attack - When your character has no opposing character directly in front of it: When you direct attack you opponent, you deal your
b) Frontal Attack - When your character has an opposing character directly in front of it: when you frontal attack your opponent, you only deal whatever soul damage your character has at the time, and this may be higher than 1 depending on skills, after trigger check etc.
c) Side Attack - When your character has an opposing character, but you do not wish for them to battle and choose to "go around" the character in front: when you side attack your opponent, your side-attacking character gets minus a certain amount of soul and this depends on the characters in front Level. For example, if you character is 2 soul, you choose to do a side attack, and the character in front is Level 2, you will deal 0 soul damage before trigger checks.
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| Drive Trigger Check |
In brief, here's how each attack goes:
Attack Declaration > Trigger Check > Counter > Damage > Character Battle.
When you have declared what kind of attack to do per battle, you reveal the top card of your deck. If it has a "soul" icon in the top right hand corner of the card, you deal your opponent and extra damage. When revealed and seen if there is or not a soul icon, you put the card face down into your Stock Area. As mentioned before, you can not change the order of these cards and you may not look at them once placed face down. After trigger checks, you deal your opponent a varied amount of damage, depending on characters soul count, triggers, skills, climaxes used etc.
Then once that occurs, your characters on stage then do battle depending on your choice; If you chose to frontal attack, here are the 3 possible outcomes of the characters battles:
1. If you character has a higher power than the one directly in front, you will force you opponent's character to become <reversed>.
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| Becoming <reversed> in a Frontal Attack |
Becoming <reversed> in battle will mean the character is being driven off stage during the Encore Phase.
Counter & Backup ~ As mentioned before, Counter occurs once Triggers are checked. Now backup is an action where players may play cards with the "backup" (a clenched fist) icon from hand to generally give characters extra power to help them before frontal combat occurs. Backup cards usually assist the character to help it not become reversed when targeted for a frontal attack. It is important to allow you opponent to trigger check before you decide to play a backup card as some decks have cards (climax cards usually) have the ability to "bounce" / return an opposing character from stage back to the owner's hand; meaning no battle will occur (thus not being able to play backup cards) but damage will still occur.
7. Encore Phase ~
During this phase, any <reversed> characters may become <rested> instead of going to the Waiting Room permanently. In order to return your <reversed> character to stage, you must pay for Encore.
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| Paying 3 stock to "encore" your <reversed> character |
Any markers underneath your <reversed> character is lost and retired to the Waiting Room along with the character. However paying Encore does not return the markers.
It must be noted that the "pay 3 stock" encore rule doesn't just occur during your Encore Phase. If you opponent retires your character, you may pay for encore then to bring it back to the stage.
8. End Phase ~
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| An encored character returning to the <rest> position |
Preparing a Deck
When preparing a deck, you must make sure that you do not have any more than 8 Climax cards in your deck; you may choose to use less (however this isn't recommended) but you may not use more. You may also not use any more than 4 copies of a named card; so even if you have different artwork, it's still classed as the same card as it does keep the same name; keep this in mind!
As well as making sure there is exact 50 cards in your deck, that's basically it in terms of deck-building rules.
It's personally up to you how you choose to prepare and build you own deck but through my own experience of developing my understanding of the game from a novice to an experienced player, here are a few tips that may help you in your quest to your ultimate deck:
1. Mono colours ~ A useful thing I found was, even though most/all trial decks are two colours, it was easier to get to grips with the basic rules of gameplay if I played a deck built from one colour support cards, so a deck comprised of just Green, or just Yellow cards for example. I understand that not all colours process enough support in a particular set to make a decent deck from particular colours (Blue comes to mind here; at least in the 3 sets I have been involved with).
This method may not work for everyone, but so far I have created 11 Weiss decks of my own and created 5 for other people with very positive results (the builds winning me local tournaments, 85-90% win overall in general) in regards to synergy and strength. Some may disagree with my builds/choices, but that's the joys of it being a card game and how every player can see and utilize combos that others may not.
3. Keep it Simple! ~ When building your deck, be sure to not try and fill your build with too many combos. I found the more combos you try and force into your deck, believe it or not, the less consistent the overall power and strength it shall have. By all means put in 2-3 main combos, involving certain Climax cards perhaps, into your deck because without them you deck won't have much flare, but adding too many will disrupt it as well. Be sure to find a good balance within your deck!
4. Use the Internet ~ I haven't yet done this, but a good obvious way to get going is to research online for particular decklist from your chosen set. By doing this, it will give you an idea of what a deck's synergy should look like, and as your research continues, you will begin to notice how players will use the same few cards in their decks; with obvious reasons those cards are their "key" cards so maybe you should look into using them too :)
5. Think Outside of the Box ~ Literally what it says: think outside of the box and don't feel afraid to try something new and away from the usual candidates in your deck. Be sure you feel confident in yourself and look at other combos that could be a secret that others may not have thought of yet and even end up being a potential game winning trick!
6. Widen your Knowledge ~ Once you feel that you are getting into the swing of things, it's a good time to start researching into other sets, even if you don't plan on buying/trading into that set. The simple reason for that is if you come against a build from that set, with enough research, you should be able to understand your opponent's cards/combos before they use them and give you a head start in thinking of a strategy to get around/combat your opponent. It's something worth looking into anyway ;)
7. Don't Give Up! Have Fun! ~ Practice really does make perfect and without determination, you will slowly go off this game, like any other. Throughout your quest to master this epic card game, be sure to have a good time and have fun while to find the deck perfect for you and your playstyle.
That's all I can personally think of, but I found as I developed my understanding of the game, these things really helped me get into and enjoy Weiss Schwarz more and more, without having to get frustrated with loss after loss that you usually have when you get into a new game :) I hope these tips help you!
I think for now this is all I can share on the basics of how to play Weiss Schwarz. I've probably left something out somewhere but that's the joys of research :D Please make sure you don't get disheartened if your chosen deck doesn't work straight away as it's not common to hear someone say they became a "master" through the first deck they chose to build/try out, so keep at it ;)
I hope you enjoyed this blog post on how to play this brilliant card game, and maybe see you next time!
Moka x x
5. Think Outside of the Box ~ Literally what it says: think outside of the box and don't feel afraid to try something new and away from the usual candidates in your deck. Be sure you feel confident in yourself and look at other combos that could be a secret that others may not have thought of yet and even end up being a potential game winning trick!
6. Widen your Knowledge ~ Once you feel that you are getting into the swing of things, it's a good time to start researching into other sets, even if you don't plan on buying/trading into that set. The simple reason for that is if you come against a build from that set, with enough research, you should be able to understand your opponent's cards/combos before they use them and give you a head start in thinking of a strategy to get around/combat your opponent. It's something worth looking into anyway ;)
7. Don't Give Up! Have Fun! ~ Practice really does make perfect and without determination, you will slowly go off this game, like any other. Throughout your quest to master this epic card game, be sure to have a good time and have fun while to find the deck perfect for you and your playstyle.That's all I can personally think of, but I found as I developed my understanding of the game, these things really helped me get into and enjoy Weiss Schwarz more and more, without having to get frustrated with loss after loss that you usually have when you get into a new game :) I hope these tips help you!
I think for now this is all I can share on the basics of how to play Weiss Schwarz. I've probably left something out somewhere but that's the joys of research :D Please make sure you don't get disheartened if your chosen deck doesn't work straight away as it's not common to hear someone say they became a "master" through the first deck they chose to build/try out, so keep at it ;)
I hope you enjoyed this blog post on how to play this brilliant card game, and maybe see you next time!
Moka x x
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